LEE A. WOOD

CHRISTMAS AT THE GRAND GATEWAY PLAZA.
Most people, when they travel, go to visit mountains, lakes, and beaches. Many of course enjoy a good round of golf while some people much prefer a day of `round a' round'.
`Round a' round' is my personal name for walking from store to store, up one street and down another and from one end of a mall to the other, without actually buying anything, just looking and comparing prices and quality.
Round a' round in modern Shanghai is no different than in any other city. While there are still government stores where some of the citizens believe they get better quality and better prices there are thousands of private stores where you can buy anything from a roll of lifesavers to a Lexus.
In central PuDong, a district of Shanghai, is the Lotus Supercenter, a supermarket much like a large IGA or Buy Low. The main floor is filled with shelves and displays and checkout counters. The checkouts are designed similar to the express lanes at the Real Canadian Super Store where they have two small check outs in one lane except that they had four in each lane. There were over ten lanes, more than forty-four check stands.
There was also a long stairless escalator like the type used in Metrotown in Burnaby, the ribbed kind, so that specially designed shopping carts can't run away and hurt someone. Upstairs a second floor is similar to Zellers or Woolworths; clothing, electronics, toys, etc.
Outside of the market, along the sidewalk were many vendors, their goods spread on blankets. It reminded me of shopping at the large flea market on Terminal ave. in Vancouver. When you go in there are many street vendors, when you come out they are all gone. The police having ticketed them for selling without a license.
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When we came out of the Lotus Supercenter the police were just arriving. The vendors were quickly picking up the corners of their blankets, slinging the bundles of their goods over their shoulders, and quickly departing.
The Lotus Supercenter, many businesses, have their name up in English. (Actually it is not English but Pinyin. It can be very confusing as some times they spell a name as two words and sometimes as one. Such as Wu Xie or Wuxie. And don't expect to pronounce it the way it is spelled. Although that is the purpose of Pinyin. If you were to ask five different people, you are likely to come up with five different pronunciations.)
NanJing Lu Dong is a major shopping area in Shanghai. Much of the street is, like Granville St. in Vancouver, closed to traffic. Unlike Granville St. even busses and taxis are excluded. Instead, they have a miniature train that will carry passengers down the middle of the thoroughfare.
All along NanJing Lu are lighted Pepsi Cola signs, like Xmas decorations on alternating street poles, on both sides of the street, for an entire two blocks. The humorous part of it was that if one stood in the middle of the street, between, and above, all the Pepsi signs, was a Coca Cola sign.
Nearly everywhere you look there is a Pepsi advertisement, to the point where it becomes a blight on the scenery.
Another common Canadian sign is that of KFC. Kentucky Fried Chicken outlets are very popular in Shanghai.
In China, I saw very few panhandlers but was accosted, a couple of times, by men, in suits and ties, trying to sell me, what they guaranteed were 100% genuine, Rolex watches.
I was never much for jewellery and I most certainly would never waste money on a watch in this day and age of quartz electric watches that keep excellent time and retail, in Canada, for $7.95. But a couple of weeks later I did pay twice that for a Rolex at a stand in a market. By then I was so used to the low prices in China that I figured paying twice as much as I would at home was worth it just for the souvenir.
The asking price was Y380, punched into a large calculator so I could read the numbers. When I shook my head `no', they, a father and daughter team, handed me the calculator with the numbers erased. I punched in Y80. They screeched and punched in Y280. I cleared the screen and punched in Y110. They came back with what they said was a final offer of Y150. I cleared the screen and came up to Y120. Again they came back with what they said was a final offer, Y130. I changed it to Y125 but they held firm at Y130.
I later went into a jewellery store and compared the watch to a Rolex submariner, which is what it says on the one I bought. The real Rolex retails for Y33,000. The appearance is identical and I am told that the quality is very good.
The Chinese are very good at copying brand name products and because their labour cost is so low their retail price is also quite low. Such copied products are called `Knock Offs' and one must be cautious when buying them. There are poor quality knock offs and good quality knock offs.
From the outskirts of PuDong to the Lotus Supercenter is a twenty minute bus ride. A forty minute bus ride takes you to the main shopping area of PuDong but still not to the main downtown area of Shanghai.
On PuDong Rd. S., is a building with three floors of computer stores. Much like the small computer stores one would encounter in the Parker Center in Richmond, side by side, or on tables in the courtyards like the stalls in the monthly computer swap meet. Vendors vie for customers by offering similar products and services at similar prices to those in Canada. IBM style computers and peripherals were approximately the same price as in Canada but Macintosh products were more expensive.
Next door to the computer store, at the intersection of Zhang Yang Rd. was a Yaohan center, owned by the same Japanese company that owns the Yaohan center in Richmond. However, the comparison between the two stores is like the difference between night and day, or should I say Yin and Yang.
In one wing of the main floor is an auto display with the latest model of Buick, Lexus, Jaguar, Honda, Hyundai, etc. The floor space of the building is probably three times that of the one in Richmond. It is like a giant Hudson Bay store with all the various departments: furnishings; clothing; cosmetics; etc. The entire ninth floor is a food court.
Bin's brother had given us the addresses for a couple of trade shows that were displaying the latest in down insulated outer wear so we spent the afternoon walking NanJing Rd. and comparing prices and quality of vests and coats at various retail shops and the trade shows. Eventually I purchased a nylon vest containing 20 % down and 80 % duck feathers for Y225 and a ski coat with hood, containing, 100% eiderdown for Y520. In Canada this coat would probably sell for $520.
The most memorable part of this shopping experience was not the great price I got but the disruption I caused. While shopping at one display, clerks from nearby displays would overhear what it was I was looking for, hold up their wares, and call to me. As well, fellow shoppers would stop to watch and see how I compared quality, size, and accessories.
When I went to look in a mirror I would have to part a throng of onlookers. In the mirror, my reflection was closely surrounded, by that of fellow shoppers.
First and foremost for me, when shopping for clothes is size. I stand 6' 4" and weight 230, well OK, 240 pounds. I need XXXL but several of the sellers assured me that their XXL were underrated and sure enough I did end up buying XXL. In fact, the ski coat I bought is an XL. But on the whole most of their XXL were too small.
I was keeping my eyes open for some outer wear for work as the jacket I have is getting rather seedy and isn't water proof. I looked at some Gortex products but the cheapest item they had, a shell jacket, was Y1,700. I have never priced Gortex in Canada but I believe it is about the same price.
I believe it was in the No. 1 Dept. Store that I saw the Gortex, while mailing a post card. The No. 1 Dept. Store is one of the oldest and most famous stores in China. It is at the junction of NanJing DongLu and XiZang BeiLu.
At this intersection there is a circular pedestrian overpass that crosses each street twice, encompassing the entire intersection with stairs and escalators for each sidewalk.
It is at this intersection where the streets change their names. NanJing DongLu the most famous shopping area becomes NanJing XiLu and XiZang BeiLu becomes XiZang NanLu. Sounds confusing but in reality it is easy. Lu means road, Bei means North, and Nan means South. So, at this intersection XiZang North Road becomes XiZang South Rd.
Just West of the intersection, on the South side of NanJing DongLu is the National Hotel. To the left of the lobby entrance is an optical shop where I got new lenses for my glasses. The price of Y360 included scratch resistant and ultraviolet coatings. In Canada it would have cost me more than that for the lenses without coatings.
Link to Pictures of NanJing Lu.
| HOTEL LOBBY | ![]() Interior of the Hotel Grand National on NanJing Lu. |
Though the major stores are to the East of XiZang Lu, NanJing XiLu also offers a lot of shopping. Here you will find many small specialty stores along both sides of the street.
Not really into leather I took a look at a few jackets but Y2,000 was more than I wanted to pay for something to wear for work. Without really looking we stumbled across a store that specialized in leather and had just received a shipment of jackets that would do me nicely. They had a two X that didn't fit too bad, a bit short in the sleeves, but not bad looking and only Y190. I was happy to find, when I reached home, that it fit nicely over my new eiderdown vest. A perfect combination for work during the cold rainy days of February.
| HUAHAI LU | ![]() Stores are open late every night. |
To the South of this shopping area is the Peoples Square Park, the Shanghai Museum, and an entrance to the subway. Beneath the park, surrounding the subway, is an enormous market. Row after row of stall after stall, selling watches and other jewellery, clothing, knick knacks, and refreshments.
The subway whisked us to the Grand Gateway Plaza at Hong Qiao Lu and HengShan Lu and HuaShan Lu. Where these three major streets intersect is a commercial area with huge department stores. The one store, the Gateway Center probably rivals, in size, the Yaohan Center in PuDong.
| GATEWAY PLAZA | ![]() Three major streets converge. |
The entrance is a broad flight of stairs that was partially closed because it was decorated for Xmas. Inside the center court opened to the top floor. Wide walkways circled the center court on each floor and led to immense departments of clothing, jewellery, and other products.
Though the Gateway had the most impressive Christmas display I saw, most stores were playing Xmas carols. Many stores had pictures of Santa and large trees in the lobbies. Lots of clerks were wearing Santa toques.
One thing that is very noticeable in Shanghai is the presence of staff. If you want to try something on or ask the price of an item you don't have to go searching for a clerk.
The outlying districts, such as PuDong, like the suburb of Richmond, gobble up fertile land. Crops are replaced by residential complexes, driving prices up. Potatoes that once cost Y1 for 5 pounds are now Y5 for a 10 # bag.
Probably my most rememberable shopping experience was the country market in PuDong Dong (East PuDong). This mostly open market sells everything. There is an enclosed meat market and hardware department but most of the stalls are out in the open. Some of the best buys and the freshest produce are down the alley where the local farmers squat beside the building with their few bundles of onions or cabbage that they picked that morning.

THE GRAND GATEWAY DEPARTMENT STORE. `00 Dec. 
MORE PICTURES OF
GATEWAY PLAZA. `03 Jan.
| FAMILY | Link to Pictures of the market. |
To Market, To Market, To Buy a Fat Hog, Uh, Pig.
(L - R) Huang, Jing Mei - Huang, Jia Jia - Huang, Bin - Huang, Jun Jia, - Huang, Jing Fu.
Nearly every morning I went to the market with one or more of my in laws. Chinese are not great believers in refrigerators or stored foods. They like to have their meat and vegetables fresh which requires a daily trip to the market.
observing my sister-in-law haggle over the price of a handful of mushrooms was priceless entertainment. Jin Mei and the vendor would become so red in the face I thought they would start fighting, but they went through the same routine every morning.
Watching her choose fish was another learning experience. First you choose your fish, then you hold it by the tail and squeeze out any water before handing it to the store clerk for weighing.
I went to the same fish shop with Jin Fu and after he had chosen five fish and placed them in a shallow basket the clerk was holding, the fish all began to wiggle and flopped out of the basket, back into the tank.
I had read that when in China I should expect to be stared at. I never noticed this more that at the open market. While standing, waiting for Huang Bin to shop, I would see workers or shoppers from other stalls stop what they were doing and stare at me.
Though I spent a lot of time going round a' round and saw some pretty amazing shopping centers I never saw a mall. I saw markets and departments stores that were bigger than most malls. And though I explored a lot of different types of shopping I only saw a very few of the many shopping areas in the vast metropolis that is Shanghai.
Whether you are looking for a bargain or a top of the line quality article, shanghai is definitely a shoppers paradise.
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