A WORKER STARTS HIS DAY BY DIGGING HOLES FOR BEACH UMBRELLAS.
IN THE BACKGROUND A YOUNG COUPLE START THEIR NEW LIFE BY POSING FOR WEDDING PICTURES.
Author's note:
After Hurricane Wilma in `07 the above beach (Playa Norte) is only 1/2 as wide.
Author's note:
After Hurricane Wilma in `07 the above beach (Playa Norte) is only 1/2 as wide.
* * * * * * * * * * * *
NOTE: This story is full of pictures, just click on the highlighted words.
When I returned from Cozumel on Sat. `02 May 25th, I stopped in downtown Cancun to visit Cesar, the travel agent that who set up my trip to Xcaret. I was told that he no longer worked there, so I won't mention the name of the agency.
I walked back across the street, Ave. Tulum, and caught the bus to Puerto Juarez. There are large busses that charge $4 and there are smaller, VW vans, that charge $3. Just look on the windshield for the name Puerto Juarez. Either of them will drop you at the ferry terminal.
Puerto Juarez is not the only departure point for Isla [(Isla Mujeres) (Island of Women)]. One could go by plane, Isla boasts a small runway in the center of the island, or you could go by car, there is a truck ferry that docks in Bahia de Isla Mujeres, (Isla Mujeres Bay) or you could go by tour boat, at least one leaves Playa Tortuga, in Cancun's Hotel Zone, every morning.
I chose to go by the slower of the two public ferries. The faster one is twice the fare ($35) and takes about a third of the time to cross. As well as saving money I wanted the adventure of the old wooden boat, reminiscent of the boats going up the Amazon in the adventure movies. (The slow ferry is only $18.) I had taken a fast style ferry when I had gone to Cozumel. You are trapped inside under freezing air conditioning.
With high expectations I boarded the open structure of the slow ferry and enjoyed natures air conditioning, ocean breezes wafting through the cabin.
It was a pleasant experience to listen to the wood creak as the old boat rolled with the waves. You can hang your head out over the side and take pictures or gaze, down, through the crystal clear water. During the one hour trip (20 minutes on the fast ferry) there is nowhere that you can't see the bottom of the ocean, which should calm the fears of people who don't like to ride in boats.
As we approached Isla I tried to ask one of the crew members where I would find a cheap hotel.
Between my poor Spanish and his poor English we were unable to communicate. When I disembarked onto the dock there was a gentleman, Sergio Barbudo, waiting for me, as the crew member from the boat had pointed me out to him.
Sergio approached me with a list of hotels that were half the usual rate. By this, I mean, that with his negotiating, he could get the room for 1/2 the price that is on the board behind the desk clerk.
Possibly you could get the price even lower if you were on your own and a good negotiator.
A short walk from the pier (Virtually everything is a short walk from the pier on Isla.), Sergio led me to the hotels. We were accompanied by two ladies from England whom I had met on the ferry. They, like me, were backpackers and looking for low priced accommodations.
The first hotel we looked at had no water running into the toilet or the sink, in the room I was shown. The two ladies fared a little better and decided to stay there as the room was large and they were expecting some more friends.
One thing I noticed in the rooms, the beds were very wide. Not necessarily longer for tall people but wide enough for four or more.
Sergio then took me for another short walk, through the center of town, to El Caracol. I chose to stay at this hotel. Their prices were the same as the first hotel but they agreed to give me a reduced rate, $140, if I took it for six nights.
El Caracol is a lovely hotel with hot water, a seat on the toilet, pleasant management, and a water cooler in the lobby. While I was there they were busy repainting inside and out. One drawback, my room was at the front of the building and I had to
endure the noises of the street, trucks bringing supplies early in the morning and a night club with live bands late at night, or early in the morning, depending on your sense of timing. Which of course is followed by the loud partiers wending their way home after bar closing time. Which in turn is followed by the band loading their equipment onto their bus.
After checking into the hotel I quickly; dumped my bag on the bed, changed from shorts to swim trunks, and headed for the beach. Due South for 1/2 a block and due West for 3 blocks and I was in the water. Stopping momentarily at the Sea Friends dive shop to see if it was a public beach. Most of the streets in Isla end on a beach. You may have to walk between tables to get to the water. The tables belong to the businesses but the beach is public.
I also queried the man at the shop as to rates for diving. I took a two tank dive with them later in the week.
The water around Isla is salty and warm. At a depth of forty feet I didn't need so much as a T-shirt for warmth.
There is very little current along the south side of the island and if you lie back and close your eyes you will slowly roll over the gentle swells and casually drift along the shore to the Western point.
The main beach in Isla, Playa Caribe, stretches West from the ferry dock, paralleling the main street, Av. Rueda Medina, across the front of the charter boat piers, and under the local fishing boats that have been pulled ashore.
Then the long open public beach passes the tour boat pier where tourists come from Cancun and spend the day on the beach.
It was entertaining to watch the sailors from the tour boat, `Caribbean Queen', with a long rope, bring water out of the ocean so that the returning tourists could wash the sand from their feet before boarding the boat.
The beach then curves North around the hotels.
At this point one of the hotels is built right to the waters edge and it is impossible to walk around the rock wall without getting your feet wet if the tide is in.
Playa Norte (North Beach) goes in front of all the businesses and here one has to walk out quite a ways before the water gets deep. The waves are slightly higher but there is less current.
At the Northern tip there is no current and you can float in one spot forever. Also at the Northern tip, you have to walk West for a long way before it gets deep, or you can walk East into Caleta Zazil-Ha (Zazil-Ha Cove). Here the water is quite shallow and very warm.
In Caleta Zazil-Ha you will find a small bridge
that connects Isla to Islote El Yunque (Anvil Island) which is the home of the Avalon Resort. The bridge splits the beach and the cove. On the East side of the bridge the water is known as Bano del Rey (Bathtub of the King) and the beach is called Playa del Secrecto (Secret Beach).
The entire cove is a natural wading pool enjoyed by local families, in the evenings and on weekends.
Islote el Yunque extends North into a rock reef and makes a natural breakwater, reducing the large waves of the Mar Caribe (Caribbean Sea) to gentle swells. Because of the constant pounding of the Atlantic surf the reef is not a recommended place to swim but I did some snorkeling
along the Southern side of the rocks towards the Eastern end.
After my swim I had a well deserved siesta and then walked across the street to `Amigos de los Animales' the local SPCA and the Cosmic Cosas used book store where I checked my E mail, using their internet services.
For the next hour I traversed every street and avenue in the downtown section, observing restaurants, scooter rentals, and souvenir shops, and comparing prices, in the grocery store with those of Cozumel and Cancun. The fact that all products have to be ferried to the Island has not increased the prices overly much.
It was Saturday night and, as per usual, when in Mexico, I toured El Centro, taking pictures and sampling the fare of various vendors. Supper was not as tasty as other El Centros I have been to but it was a pleasant evening, watching the inevitable basketball game and observing the full moon that lit
the plaza.
Before going to Mexico, on this trip, I had received, from Dan & Ginny, a copy of their `Travel Tips', in which it was suggested that people should not rent scooters as the streets of Isla are very narrow and crowded. Plus the fact that the island is very small and easily accessible by foot or golf cart.
In a way I took this as a challenge. Being a professional driver I felt sure I could handle a little scooter without being a burden to other users of the streets.
Sat. evening, my first night in Isla I saw a perfect example of why Dan & Ginny say, "Don't rent scooters, walk".
Miguel Hidalgo is the main avenue of the restaurant district. On any given night, as most visitors like to dine at dusk, the street is filled with shoppers, dinners, displays, and tables.
On this particular night, there was a young lady, entertaining the diners by juggling flaming torches.
At the end of each block, each street, in the downtown area, has pipe barricades that can be removed during the day so the merchants can get supplies to their establishments. If common sense doesn't tell one that they shouldn't take a vehicle through the crowds these barricades should be sufficient to tell motorists that vehicles are not allowed on these streets.
While I was trying to get into position to take pictures of the juggler, two dipsticks on a scooter decided they should be able to use the street.
Squeezing through the pipe barricades the dim-bulbs wound their way amongst the tables, narrowly missing me, passed close in front of the juggler, and continued their way amongst the crowd to the next street.
The harassed juggler managed, somehow, to back out of the center of the street, between the tables behind her, and then back into the street again. Not only did she not drop her torches but she was able to make room for the door-knobs on the scooter without burning them or any of the audience.
I wish now that I had gotten her name so I could tell you who to hire next time you need a juggler. She is good. And poised. Though, probably seething on the inside, she never once voiced a complaint against the two dough-heads on the scooter.
Before leaving Canada I read horror stories of the over aggressive Avalon salesmen. In Isla I learned that it is easy to avoid them. Simply walk on the other side of the street, if they are busy. If they are not busy they will call to you, just wave and carry on.
If traffic is light they will cross the street to get to you. If they are coming up behind you, just ignore them and keep walking. After all how you are to know it is you they are calling, they might be calling the person behind you. Just don't turn around to check.
This applies to any salesman, selling anything. They will use various calls to get your attention. As I was wearing a T-shirt from Canada they would call, "Hey Canada.
If the salesman is in front of you it would be very impolite to ignore them. But just say, no thanks. Even if they try to open a conversation, with, "What part of Canada are you from?", brush it aside with a, "No, senor, Gracias".
Every street in every town in Mexico has salesmen, just move along with pleasant, no thank yous. Once they get you started on a conversation it is hard to get away. It is easier not to let it get started.
The Avalon salesmen are now like any other salesmen. They are not allowed to wander all over town. To my knowledge they only have three locations. There is a kiosk on the corner of El Centro. That would be the corner of Av. Benito Juarez and Francisco I. Madero. Another is at the corner of Av. Carlos Lazo and Adolfo Lopez Mateos, just South of the convention center.
AVALON SALESMAN And of course there is the foot of the bridge that goes over to Anvil Island where the Avalon is located. There I met Aniseto. Not pushy, but very pleasant. We had a very nice conversation and I extracted as much information from him as he did from me.
After that, whenever I met another salesman I would just say I had made an appointment with Aniseto. They would back off after that, rather than compromise a fellow salesman's possible sale.
Unlike dealers on Cozumel who expect you to bring your scooter back with a full tank of fuel the rental companies on Isla include the fuel in the price.
Prices range from $150 to $200 per day. With a bit of negotiating I got a $200 unit for $170. I don't remember whether or not I bought insurance but I did pay the extra for the helmet. And was happy I did as later I saw a police officer stopping scooter riders who were not wearing helmets, particularly if they were female.
One thing I forgot to do was a circle-check for damage and scratches. The salesman assured me it was a new bike but it was obvious that it wasn't. When I returned the worker asked me if I had fallen. When I said `no' he wanted me to come and see the scratch. I refused saying that I never put any scratches on it. After a short discussion with his boss the subject was dropped.
Whether the scratch was there before I left or not I don't know. I do know that I neither dropped the bike nor ran into anything. I also know that despite Dan & Ginny's fears, I, as a beginning bike rider, did not unduly disturb nor hinder other users of the streets.
After all, between Cuba and Cozumel, by the time I reached Isla, I had a whole ten hours of scooter driving experience under my belt. But as a professional driver I have forty years of city and highway experience and know the rules of courtesy and safety.
By noon I had traversed every street, Along the East coast I saw some really distinct houses, but why anyone would want to live along there is beyond me. The winter storms must be an awesome sight and would certainly take a toll on even the best of constructed structures which I am sure those homes are not.
Invariably construction in Mexico uses a low grade cement and a poor quality sand which leads to an inferior concrete. In fact, on Isla, I believe, the sand they use is actually fine coral which tends to break down.
I first noticed this in Zihuatanejo, which had been built into a tourist town for Mexicans twenty years ago, and now has fallen into disrepair as the waves have destroyed what was once a lovely seawall.
Evidence of similar erosion is common throughout Isla, particularly along the East coast where structures are open to the prevailing winds. I believe, the Avalon hotel is a perfect example of this.
Near the South West corner of Colonia, the municipal district near the center of the island I noticed some large mud balls in the trees. I had seen similar forms near Zihuatanejo and had been told they were Iguana nests.
Parking my scooter I walked into the trees and took some pictures of them.
A short way down the road I met some policemen and asked them what the balls were. I am sure, to an onlooker, it must have looked comical with me making hand gestures and trying in my limited Spanish to explain what I wanted.
Several times I just gave up and tried to say Adios but by then the Policemen thought it was something serious and were determined to find out what I was talking about.
Eventually one gentleman climbed on the back of my scooter and, with the police vehicle following, we returned to the scene of the crime.
The man picked up a small rock and broke a small hole in the side of the ball and showed me little white crawlies which I thought he called hormiga, ants, but I believe were termites.
During my day of scooting I noticed a couple of small stores that had amusing signs in their windows. One sign said, `prices lower than Wal-mart', the other said `K-mart blue light specials'.
Though I am told that Cozumel is crime free I saw many houses with bars on the windows, and lots had broken glass atop the walls. However, not as many as Zihuatanejo, but more than I saw in Isla.
Keeping with my tradition, when travelling to a strange town, of eating in a different place each time, and finding little out of the way eateries, I discovered a small house in Colonia Miraflores.
This was so Mexico: a small menu on the wall outside the door to their home; a concrete patio with four tables and chairs; a thatched roof, and outrages prices, this last said with tongue in cheek.
I don't know its name, and I have no idea of the name of the street. It is on a corner and a bus route.
I tried something I had never had before, sopes, for which they wanted the outrageous price of $5. I had two and in keeping with my diet controlled myself from ordering more.
For refreshment I ordered a Fanta Orange for I have discovered that in Mexico they still use the original recipe and not the watered down version that they sell in Canada.
The restaurant was out of soft drinks but they sent the young boy across the street to the corner store. He came back with the news that the store was out as well. I said, "Coca", and he quickly dashed back across the street and got a bottle of Coke.
The Coke, I discovered, in Mexico is also made with the original recipe and tastes much better than the watered down crap that they try to pass off as `Classic Coke' in Canada.
I normally don't have a drink with lunch but having rediscovered the old tastes while in Cuba I continued to enjoy orange and coke while in Mexico.
For cena, supper, that night I had Penne at Ristorante Italiano Angelo on Ave. Hidalgo, the main tourist Street. Angelo, who is originally from Sardinia, Italy has been in Isla for six years and serves excellent Italian food. Just before I left Isla he opened up an ice cream bar with genuine Italian gelato.
I mentioned earlier, while deboating, okay, no such word. Well, we say `deplaning' don't we? After disembarking from the Blanca Beatriz, I had noticed that the strap was separating from the bottom of my fin bag.
While touring the Colonias on a scooter I had found a small mall that wasn't open, being Sunday. I thought that might be the location of the shoe store Sergio had told me about.
On Monday I caught the bus from downtown Isla, $3. The driver dropped me on the main road. A short walk, to the East, of a couple of blocks, took me to the mall.
The mall is a circular building with small stores: vegetables; shoes; clothing; newspapers, around the outside, facing the parking lot, and more small shops, mostly meat shops, on the inside, facing an open courtyard. The small shops are similar to those found in Shanghai, China.
With my spattering of Spanish, the use of my booktionary, and some sign language, I managed to show the proprietor of the shoe store what was wrong with my bag and how I would like it repaired. I suggested a piece of leather for reinforcing but he said he had some material that would work better.
He suggested I come back in a couple of hours and I told him to take his time, I would come back the next day.
While on the bus we had passed the little restaurant where I had had lunch the day before so I walked back through the streets of Colonia Miraflores and had a huarache for lunch.
In the center of Isla Mujeres is two small lakes. After lunch I walked along the seawall of Salina Grande from one end of to the other.
The next day I caught the bus to Colonial to pick up my dive bag. The shoe maker had done such a nice job that I gave him more than the $20 he asked for.
During my outings I developed a sore toe. Forgetting the advice I had read on the Isla Mujeres Message Board, about the clinic and the Red Cross, I used the services of the 24 hr. doctor on Av. Miguel Hidalgo.
It cost me $300 for a short exam during which the doctor told me I had a small cut under my toe that had become infected. The doctor gave me a prescription for Penicillin which cost me $110.
As I had bought T-shirts for souvenirs in other towns I didn't want to buy another one in Isla. Several displays of bright beach towels reminded me of how shabby mine was becoming. After checking many stores, prices were usually $150, I found a nice design at the Mercado. Their price was only $120 and, with a bit of bargaining, I got a nice souvenir of Isla for $100.
A friend of mine who plays guitar in a Philippine band, (see my Interview, `Sacred Mushrooms') had asked me to find him a shell choker that he could wear on stage.
After searching in many stores I found three matching chokers, in three different sizes. I don't know the name of the store but it was in a little mall of similar souvenir shops on Av. Rueda Medina.
They were asking $100 each for the chokers. Having absolutely no idea how big a choker should be, or the size of my friend's neck, I bought, after a bit of bargaining, all three for $200.
The next time I went to see the band play, I gave one to each of the members and let them sort out which one fit.
Before I left Canada I was told to go to Isla first. I said I would save the best for the last. I was right. After Cancun, Cuba, & Cozumel, Isla is the best.
We rented a golf car for the day and toured the island.
At Punta Sur we watched people riding cables from a resort to the cliff, from the cliff to a post out in the water, then back to the resort.
WEATHER in ISLA MUJERES * * * * * * * * *
RELATED WEB SITES To the Top of This PAGE
Send me a comment (and I will add it to my Guest Book), or correction, or just say, "Hi"!
Thank you for visiting Bear's `Isla Mujeres' Page.
Please come back and visit again.
Above and below the water with Sea Friends.
WHAT IS IT?? Short Video Underwater. Takes a few seconds to load. If you have sound, you can hear its footsteps in the sand.
CLICK HERE If the video didn't work, or, for an explanation of the video.
Link to pictures of street scenes.
Link to pictures of houses on the East coast.
Other places on Isla where I enjoyed a meal.
Other pictures of Isla.
ADDENDUM
SEA SHELLS THAT SERENA COLLECTED AND
A PIECE OF BLACK FAN CORAL THAT
I FOUND WASHED UP ON THE BEACH
APARTMENTS TRINCHAN
46 Av. CARLOS LAZO
Ph. 52 1 99 81 66 69 67
atrinchan@prodigy.net.mx
1 WEEK - FAN, HOT WATER, & TV - P2100 - NO A/C
THE ROOM COMES
WITH A
MOSQUITO
CATCHER
A GEKO LIVES
BEHIND THE LIGHT
ALMOST THERE, BUT IT'S UPHILL, NOW
THIS LADY SLOWED DOWN TOO SOON,
THE MAN HAD TO COME OUT AND RESCUE HER
SERENA DRIVING OUR GOLF CAR
TWO MORE PARKING AREAS, OUT OF SIGHT, ALL FULL
MAYAN STATUE - LADY GIVING BIRTH
ONCE A SANDY BEACH, THE WAVES OF HURRICANE GILBERT TOOK THE SAND AWAY
THIS SIDE OF THE ISLAND IS ALWAYS OPEN TO THE WAVES OF THE CARIBBEAN
AN ENDLESS STREAM AND IT'S NOT RUSH HOUR
JUST SOUTH OF PUNTA NORTE,
UNDERTOW IS TOO STRONG FOR SWIMMING
SERENA FOUND MANY SHELLS HERE AND
NEVER GOT HIT BY A WAVE
FAMILY SWIMMING IN THIS LAGOON,
THE ROCK REEF BREAKS THE WAVES
BEAR (ME) SNORKELING
NEAR THE ROCKS IN THE LAGOON
VERY SHALLOW WATER
THE WATER HERE IS WARM AND CALM
DANCE, BALLERINA, DANCE
BARRACUDA
`AMIGOS DE LOS ANIMALES'
A Non-Profit SPCA.
FERRY SCHEDULES
Puerto Juarez to Isla Mujeres
HOTEL VILLA ROLANDI
Gourmet & Beach Club.
I LOVE MY ISLA MUJERES
The Unofficial Isla Mujeres Site.
ISLA MUJERES NET
Travel tips for Isla Mujeres, Mexico.
ISLA MUJERES NET
Travel tips for Isla Mujeres, Mexico. (Same as above but has a musical opening which requires Java)
SURF - MEXICO
Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo
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